Repotting 101: When & How to Give Your Plant a New Home

Repotting 101: When & How to Give Your Plant a New Home

Is It Time to Repot? Here's How to Tell.

Repotting isn’t just about aesthetics—it’s plant care at its most essential. A fresh pot and soil can mean the difference between a thriving beauty and a struggling stem. So how do you know it's time? Here are the signs:

  • Roots are growing out of the drainage holes

  • The plant dries out constantly

  • The soil is compacted or not absorbing water

  • You notice yellowing leaves or stunted growth

  • You haven’t repotted in over a year (yes, even if it looks okay)

Step-by-Step: How to Repot Your Plant Like a Pro

Step 1: Gather Your Tools

  • A slightly larger pot with drainage holes

  • Fresh, well-draining potting mix

  • Gloves (if you're not a dirt-under-the-nails type)

  • Scissors or pruning shears

  • A chopstick or old fork to gently loosen roots

 

Step 1.5: Choose the Right Pot (and Saucer) – It Matters More Than You Think

Before you even reach for that bag of soil, let’s talk containers. The pot you choose doesn’t just affect your décor—it can make or break your plant’s health. From drainage to moisture retention, your choice of pot and saucer plays a crucial role.

Terracotta (Clay Pots)

Pros:

  • Naturally porous, allowing soil to breathe and dry evenly

  • Great for preventing overwatering

  • Classic, earthy aesthetic that pairs beautifully with greenery

Cons:

  • Dries out quickly—less ideal for moisture-loving plants

  • Can crack in colder weather or if dropped

  • Heavier than other materials

Best for: Plants prone to overwatering like snake plants, succulents, and ZZ plants.

Plastic Pots

Pros:

  • Lightweight and usually inexpensive

  • Retains moisture longer, making them ideal for tropicals

  • Flexible, making it easy to repot or remove plants

Cons:

  • Not breathable—can trap moisture if overwatered

  • Less durable in sun-exposed areas

  • May not offer the elevated look many plant lovers prefer

Best for: Thirsty plants like ferns, calatheas, or peace lilies.

Ceramic Pots (Glazed)

Pros:

  • Elegant and decorative—often works as a design feature

  • Regulates temperature well in indoor environments

  • Durable if kept indoors

Cons:

  • Often lacks drainage holes (always double-check)

  • Heavier and more fragile

  • Can be pricier

Best for: Larger statement plants in high-traffic or visible areas. Use a plastic nursery pot inside if no drainage hole is present.

Eco-Friendly Pots (Bamboo, Biodegradable, Recycled)

Pros:

  • Sustainable and lightweight

  • Modern designs that support conscious consumerism

  • Breathable depending on material

Cons:

  • May break down faster than traditional pots

  • Moisture retention varies—check product details

  • Less availability in larger sizes

Best for: Small to medium-sized plants, or those transitioning from nursery pots.

What About the Saucer?

It may seem like a small detail, but choosing between an attached or separate saucer affects both plant health and surface protection. Here's what you should know:

Attached Saucers (Built-In)

Pros:

  • Clean, streamlined appearance

  • Convenient—no missing pieces to track down

  • Helps contain water when watering indoors

Cons:

  • Difficult to monitor excess moisture

  • Increases risk of root rot if water sits at the bottom

  • Not ideal for bottom watering or lifting the pot after watering

Use if: You’re confident with your watering routine and like a seamless look for display.

 

Separate Saucers

Pros:

  • Allows for easy drainage monitoring

  • Lets you lift the pot to fully empty any standing water

  • Works well for bottom watering and avoiding root rot

Cons:

  • Requires occasional cleaning and checking

  • Less unified look unless styled intentionally

  • May scratch furniture if not cushioned underneath

Use if: You prefer flexibility, better drainage, or you're still fine-tuning your watering schedule.

 

The Gilded Monstera Tip:
Always choose a pot that’s just 1–2 inches larger in diameter than your plant’s current one to avoid excess moisture retention. And whatever pot you pick, make sure it has a drainage hole—or use a nursery pot inside a decorative cachepot to control moisture and style your plant like a pro.

 

Step 2: Gently Remove the Plant

Tilt the pot sideways and ease your plant out by the base of the stem. Don’t yank. If it’s stubborn, tap the sides or squeeze the pot to loosen it. For root-bound plants, you might need to break up the bottom slightly to release it.

Step 3: Assess the Roots

Now we diagnose. Here’s what to look for:

  • Healthy roots = white, tan, or pale yellow and firm

  • Root rot = black, mushy, or foul-smelling roots → trim these off immediately with clean shears

  • Root-bound = roots circling the pot in tight coils → gently tease them apart or make small cuts to loosen

Step 4: Refresh the Soil

Dump the old soil—especially if it’s dense, soggy, or over a year old. Fill the new pot with fresh, well-draining soil. For tropical plants like Monsteras and Calatheas, we recommend a mix of indoor potting soil with a handful of perlite or orchid bark for aeration.

 

Step 5: Rehome the Plant

Place your plant in the new pot and backfill with soil. The base of the stem should sit about an inch below the rim. Press down lightly to secure, but don’t compact it too hard—roots need room to breathe.

Step 6: Water Thoroughly

Give it a good soak until water runs out the drainage holes. This helps settle the soil and rehydrate the plant. Then wait until the top inch of soil dries out before watering again—you don’t want to overwhelm those freshly trimmed roots.

 What to Do in Tricky Repotting Situations

If the Soil is Too Wet

Remove as much soggy soil as possible and let the roots dry out for a few hours before repotting in fresh, dry mix. Skip watering for several days to avoid more stress.

If You Suspect Root Rot

Trim off all mushy or dark roots, sterilize your shears, and repot in clean, airy soil. Avoid watering for at least 3–5 days. Keep in bright, indirect light to encourage recovery.

If Your Plant is Root-Bound

Loosen the root ball with your hands, a chopstick, or gentle vertical cuts. Add a few inches of new soil to a pot that’s just 1–2 inches larger in diameter. Too big = too much moisture = risk of rot.

Aftercare: Let It Adjust

Don’t fertilize for a few weeks after repotting. Let your plant settle into its new digs and focus on growing new roots. If it droops a little—don’t panic. That’s normal plant stress.

 

Repotting might seem intimidating, but it’s one of the best ways to show your plant some love. Think of it like a spa day with a new outfit: refreshing, restorative, and just a little bit fabulous.

Looking for the perfect new pots? Check out our collection here at the Gilded Monstera, or our incredible soil pucks! These are compressed and fluff up when you add water!


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